In Paris this season, womenswear has one foot in the boardroom and another in the bedroom…
Dries Van Noten
‘Did it look like I was having fun? It was supposed to!’ – Dries Van Noten
It was only Day 1 of Paris and Dries Van Noten’s message was clear – underwear is the big theme for SS16 RTW. What helped differentiate Dries Van Noten from the other shows where underwear was a recurring theme was the playful environment he used. From 1940s style slips, babydoll dresses and flamboyant prints, it was a kaleidoscope of colours as well as mix of masculine and feminine shapes. continue reading
Paris Fashion Week
From decadent brocade at Dries Van Noten to Givenchy’s extravagant face jewellery and a Valentino ‘walk off’ from the stars of Zoolander, as well as breakfast at ‘Brasserie Gabrielle’ for a serving of Chanel – Paris Fashion Week was full of surprises, innovative styling and touches of retro glamour.
Dries Van Noten
This show was a celebration of fabrics. Historic brocades, colourful patterns and delicate embroideries and embellishment were combined with a utilitarian uniform of khaki accents, creating a new aesthetic for AW15. Elegantly done, this intriguing and deliberate contrasting was completed with a beautifully crafted floral corsage, worn around the neck by the model and a new feminine style born. Mix and match never looked so effortlessly stylish!
A clash of cultures was the inspiration for Riccardo Tisci’s latest collection for Givenchy. The dramatic full face of jewellery from jangling nose rings to cheek piercings and ear decoration was borrowed from the Chola girl gangs in South America. While the dark and poetic romance of the Victorian period was evident in his colour palette, as well as the strict tailoring and use of restrictive boned corsets, combined with his use of soft velvets and silks, along with opulent beaded embroideries. The result – harmonious fusing of two juxtaposing societies, brought together to create statement style.
Slightly overshadowed by the closing of the show and the staged ‘walk off’ between Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson, who were in character as Derek Zoolander and Hansel – celebrating the beginning of filming Zoolander 2. However the main Valentino show did flow somewhat like a fashion fiction movie. Beginning with Op Art monochrome squares and stripes and ending with decorative fairytale elegance, in the form of lace, embroidery and pretty pleated sleeves and tiers, in tunic and floor-weeping gown versions. Conclusion – a fashion box office hit!
This season saw Karl Lagerfield turn the Grand Palais into ‘Brasserie Gabrielle’ named after Chanel’s founder, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel. Models wandered around the brasserie tables looking chic before taking their seats to create a buzzy scene, homage to the creative café society that Gabrielle Chanel was part of. For the clothes on the menu, the traditional tweed skirt suits were updated with padded bow tie shaped quilting. As for the accessory we shall all be reserving for next season, a Chanel plate clutch to wet your fashion appetite.
Mix and match was the core ingredient at Miu Miu. Tweed checks, stripes, colourful snakeskin and bold animal print were perfectly depicted together, along with the clashing colour combinations. Reference seemed to be drawn from the Eighties punk, as well as the Sloane of that period. Particular mention should go to the patent Mary Jane heels with the oversized buckles – we are already lusting after them…